Melondy Phillips
Staff Writer
Going to the store to buy new clothes or to purchase fabric for sewing projects is second nature these days. Even in Colonial America, the purchase of imported fabrics was commonplace for many years. However, in 1767, the Homespun Movement began, due in part to the British Townshend Acts. This movement was an effort to become more self-reliant by removing dependency on taxed imports from Britain. This encouraged even those who did not spin to start doing so.
A few years later in December 1790, the first permanent American cotton spinning mill began production, in Pawtucket, Rhode Island. This revolutionary creation spurred the proliferation of textile mills in early 19th century America and helped the colonists to secure another level of independence from imports. Prior to this commercialized spinner mill, spinning fibers into yarn at home was an intricate part of daily life for many colonists living on the frontier. Spinning wheels were found in nearly every household.
Taking yet another step back in time, before the spinning wheel, was the simple spindle; one of the oldest forms of spinning fibers. Spindles are very basic in construction, lightweight, and easy to carry. This allowed the carrier to spin fiber whenever other chores gave way for the opportunity. A skilled spinner of this kind could even make yarn while relaxing and reading a book. This homespun yarn was an essential resource for weaving or knitting cloth.
There are three main types of spindles: suspended (often called a “drop spindle”), supported and grasped – historically most common. Suspended spindles hang freely while it spins but can include either a long-suspension spinning method or a short-suspension spinning method. A supported spindle is used for spinning very fine thread or very fine fibers such as silk and rests on a table or other support while it spins. A grasped spindle remains in one hand while the fingers or wrist action turns it, such as a Romanian spindle as well as many others.
The main body of a spindle is the center shaft with one or both ends tapered into a point. Some spindles may only be comprised of this part. A disk, or whorl, can be located near the top, middle or bottom of the shaft. The weight of the whorl maintains centripetal force as it pulls on the twisting fiber when used as a drop spindle. A lightweight whorl may be present on grasped spindles to help keep the finished yarn wound onto the shaft without it sliding off the end. A hook or notch may be present at the top end of the shaft to help support and guide the fiber while spinning. The size and weight of the spindles, when using the long suspension spinning method, corresponds to the finished weight of the spun fiber; the heavier the spindle, the heavier the spun yarn must be. This is not the case for grasped spindles or when using the short suspension spinning method.
Spinning the fiber to the right, or clockwise, is called a Z-twist while spinning in a counterclockwise direction is called an S-twist. It is important to keep track of this twist in case a plied yarn is created later.
As the spun fiber strand grows longer, it is wound onto the shaft to form a “cop.” The cop can be wound below, above, or around the whorl to resemble a ball, football, or conical shape. The process of spinning the fiber and winding it onto the spindle continues until there is no more fiber to spin or the spindle is full. Care must be given as a spindle fills up. As the spindle grows heavier it can affect the tension and spin causing the thread to change thickness.
Most of the time a distaff accompanied the use of a spindle. This is a separate spindle that holds loosely gathered pre-spun fiber. Placing the unspun fibers on the distaff allows the spinner to have both hands free to work the spindle.
Many cultures around the world had their own style of spinning fiber with spindles. In historical European cultures, the spindle was normally held and turned (twiddled or finger turned) in one hand while the other hand drew fiber from the distaff. This technique is similar to Romanian wool spinning. The long suspension drop spinning me-thod, often portrayed by American historical representations, was not recorded in historical records, pictures or videos of long standing traditional “living” spinners of Eastern European culture. However, the long suspension drop spinning method has been used in American history, as well as in Vikings’ history.
The Akha women used their thigh to turn the spindle. The spindle was placed horizontally on the thigh as one hand pushed it across the thigh to create the spin and while the other hand drew fiber from the distaff.
Traditionally, single spun yarn was used for weaving. Not many colonists owned looms since the ones large enough for weaving cloth were pricey and had a large footprint. Most of the homespun yarn would be plied to use for knitting, crocheting and darning. To ply the yarn, several strands of the same facing yarn (S or Z twist) are spun together in the opposite direction. This locks the strands together, increasing its strength and durability.
Even now, spinning fiber into yarn is a daily need in some parts of the world as well as an enjoyable hobby in other areas.
The next time you purchase clothes, remember the work our ancestors had to complete just to clothe their family.